Friday 22 December 2017

A Belated Summer Review

"Spring is the best time to be in Scotland, don't bother visiting in the Summer".
I think I must have paraphrased this a good few times to visiting tourists through May. Summer arrived at the end of April and hung about for a couple weeks. Like everyone else I was keen to get out to make the most of it knowing fine well that these two weeks would be the best of the year before the Summer monsoon arrives. 

Davie Bird on a wet Resurrection VS,4c at Polldubh, photo credit Andy Nisbet.

I made a quick day hit to Glen Nevis at the start of April with Davie Bird where we hooked up with Andy Nisbet who was keen to get some new guidebook shots. We got a couple classic VS ticks at Polldubh in Resurrection and Damnation before heading up the Glen to the Gorge Crags. Here I made an ascent of the underrated Conscription E1,5b which featured a steep jamming start before moving into steep, juggy, fun climbing. Andy got his shots of myself on Plague of Blazes, however I was unable to commit into the sapping wet upper groove and had to traverse off.
Myself on The Way Through E2,5b at Dunkeld, photo credit Iain Smith.


Another day trip this time to Dunkeld with Iain Smith saw me on Twilight a punchy E1,5b, The Way Through E2,5b before finishing off with the classic VS The End.

Smiles all round after the Arisaig half marathon and 10k.

At the end of April a bunch of us hired out a wee lodge up near Arisaig for a long weekend as we were all running The Road to the Isles Half Marathon & 10k. It was a great weekend of running, beaches, fires, sunsets, picnics and chippies!

Picnic spot at xxxx

Sunset over Eigg and Rum, credit Sara Cockburn.

Sean Henderson on P1 of Secretaries' Super Direct, a fairly wild one at HVS. 

Another trip up to Glen Nevis, this time with Sean, saw us warm up on the classic HVS Storm at Polldubh before moving higher to climb the infamous HVS Secretaries Super Direct before rounding off with Sean making a grand lead of Vincent E3,5c.

Sean Henderson engrossed on the initial traverse of Vincent E3,5c at Polldubh.

The day was rounded off perfectly as we arrived back down into the Glen to a fire, beer, venison, sausages and tatties cooked by Sean's brother and wife. Thanks again, it made the day!

Glen Nevis wildlife.

Sean Henderson leading on Tartan Terror, a standard Kilt Rock E1,5b.

We continued North from the Fort after meeting James Jackson the next day and headed for Kilt Rock on Skye. A day here with James always provides you with some good jamming practice, as he does his best to seek out the most brutal cracks which Kilt Rock has on offer. James made some big ticks on Skyscraper, Road to Ruin and Godzilla.

James Jackson high on Skyescraper E2,5b, Kilt Rock

Sean Henderson emerging into the light Wide Eyed, E2,5b Kilt Rock

Scotty at Kilt Rock - top crag dog.

Mountains all around; looking North across the Aonach Eagach, photo credit Sara Cockburn.

Happy as larry; atop a squinty Stob Coire Sgreamhach.

Myself and Sara had the privilege of attending Stuart Ferguson's final Munro, Beinn na Laap, at the start of June. I will always remember the giddy excitement of driving North as a kid, normally at break neck speed if Stuart was behind the wheel, for a weekend of hill walking. It was this excitement that kindled my passion for the Scottish hills and later climbing, and as such I owe a great deal of gratitude to my Dad and Stuart for that. It was a great day of torrential rain, sunshine and thunder storms, but the best bit was getting to catch up with folks who inspired my youth and seeing Stuart himself complete a lifetime ambition which clearly meant so much to him. Drams at the summit were enjoyed with the drawl of pipes in the background before further drams back at Corrour station and later the Tyndrum Inn. To quote Stuart himself on the day:

"It is about a milestone achievement but also about celebrating lifelong friendships". 



At the start of June I managed to squeeze in a one day hit to the Cobbler with Hannah. Despite walking up the Cobbler many times, climbing on it had eluded me so far. I've never quite fully enjoyed schist as a rock type for climbing on, it's snappy nature spooks me. Nonetheless, Hannah pointed me in the direction of the classic Whither Whether as a warm up, which turned into a nerve shredding VS experience! We also managed ascents of the excellent Punsters Crack and Direct Direct.

Hannah following up the wild Whither Whether.
A quick trip North to Diabaig with James was squeezed in between the showers at the start of July with James. Unfortunately the weather didn't play ball but we got a taste of the quality of the climbing on offer with ascents of the superb Route Two, Black Streak and Route Three. The rock here is amazingly grippy providing confidence to the leader to just push on.

A quick hit into Stob Coire nan Lochan with Hannah and Rowen saw us on the classic Unicorn. Unicorn takes the most impressive line in the corrie by means of the eye catching dihedral left of Central Buttress. The first pitch is the best with sustained climbing at E1 on perfect andesite. 


Hannah starting up Unicorn with some traditional back and footing.
I was gifted a copy of the new 'Scottish Bothy Bible' by Geoff Allan for my birthday. The cracking photography rekindled some enthusiasm for a grand trip into the hills, so I managed to convince Sara, despite the threat of ghouls, that we should head into Ben Alder Cottage for the weekend. This was to be Sara's first bothy experience so why not go for one of the most remote. Saturday's weather was horrendous through the day, so we started late in the afternoon and began our long 14km approach from the West end of Loch Rannoch. We made decent time along the 4x4 track before it petered out into pure bog for the last couple kilometres. Despite some hangry and tired legs, Sara dug in and was rejuvenated after a late dinner was served in front of the open fire. 



The next day we woke to blue skies and began our plod on up the approach slopes of Ben Alder with heavy legs. Some braw views were taken in up on the plateau before descending back to the col before finishing up onto the second Munro of the day Beinn Bheoil. A quick reverse from there saw us back down at the bothy and contemplating the walk back out to the car. We put in a good pace and were soon at Dunkeld enjoying some well earned fish and chips. I was proud of Sara as it was a big couple days; 40km with heavy packs for two Munro's is no wee day out!


Ben Alder cottage and Loch Ericht (photo credit Sara Cockburn).

Loch Ericht with Ben Alder above right (photo credit Sara Cockburn).
I've been meaning to spectate the Glencoe Skyline the past couple years, so was glad that this year I was free. Myself, Sara and a couple of her pals headed on up to the top of Am Bodach to watch the runners flee'in along the Aonach Eagach. It was great day with a continental atmosphere of spectators lining the tops. Inspiring stuff such high calibre athletes come to play in your own hills!


The Aonach Eagach from Am Bodach (photo credit Sara Cockburn).

1 comment:

  1. A good write up as always Craig. Roll on May 2018!

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