Trad Highlights 2016

Summer 2016 was typically Scottish; we had an excellent Spring with sunshine and temperatures in the high twenties for what seemed like weeks at a time. The Summer monsoon arrived in earnest come June and it really didn't dry up till Autumn when we were blessed with an Indian Summer. 

Gary Latter contemplating the small roof to finish his new line at Creag Dubh.

I managed to have a really productive Spring as you have to in Scotland, kicking off the season in early March with a trip up to Creag Dubh with Gary Latter and Scott G. We both followed Gary up a new E3 6a on the Great Wall, both struggling with the bouldery start!

Sunset at Goat Crag.

A great couple of days in mid March were had with Scott G where we took in the fantastic Goat Crag at Gruinard before heading on up to Reiff for a day at Seal Song Area. It was a beautiful couple of days and some of the best of the year for me. Still early enough in the year for those magic pastel sunsets. The highlight of the trip being The Executioner E2 5c at Reiff. This route is pretty pumpy but you're on jugs with textbook protection the whole way - you just need to keep going!

Tim Hamlet on The Executioner E2 5c at Seal Song Area, Reiff.

Another trip was had to Creag Dubh where myself and Sean took in the HVS crag classics of King Bee Direct and Inbred. Meanwhile we watched on as Russ Birkett warmed up with a bold ascent of The Fuhrer with Scott G.

Russ Birkett on a rather serious looking The Fuhrer E4 5c, Creag Dubh.

Our Spring trip to the Verdon was looming so Matt Thompson suggested a trip South to sample some Yorkshire limestone at Moughton Nab on what felt like a warm Summer's day. This provided some enjoyable, short but punchy sport routes and it was nice to sample some limestone for a change.

Staying with the bolt clippping vein after returning from the Verdon, myself and Ally Fulton headed on up to Weem in the midst of the balmy Scottish Spring. The highlight of the day was an ascent of Confessions of Faith for me, while Ally dispatched the steep classic 7a+ High Pitched Scream second go.

Finlay Cranston taking in the exposure on The Edge VS 4c at Loudon Hill.

A local classic which I've been meaning to do followed later on in May, when myself and Finlay Cranston headed on round to my hometown crag Loudoun Hill. It's a great wee venue with mostly shorter routes but they generally pack in some fairly bouldery climbing. The Edge is the uber classic local VS and must be the best at the grade within the Central Belt. It tackles a soaring wafer thin arete up its crest, with minimal protection and outstanding exposure at the grade. A must do.

A beautiful day at the Financial Sector, Neist.

I then managed to get a fantastic three day trip in up North again with James and his dog Scotty, at the tail end of May just before the good weather broke. We headed to Glen Nevis first which was fantastic and the first time we'd both climbed there. First we took in a couple of the classics The Old Wall VS 4b and Storm HVS 5a, both deserving three star classics. The climbing was super fun with spaced good gear and inspiring friction. We then moved to the otherside of the Glen to Whale Rock, famous for Dave Mac's E9 horror show Hold Fast. James dispatched a delicate Earthstrip E2 5c, which had what felt like a pretty difficult move at 5c low down requiring much trust in the feet, just in time before the rain came on.

James Jackson on Wish You Were Here E2 5c, Financial Sector, Neist.

We continued on up North bound for the Sligachan on Skye, I always particularly enjoy the drive to Skye heading along Loch Cluanie and on into Glen Shiel. We pitched up at the Slig before heading down to the Financial Sector at Neist the next day. We had a truly great day here with the sun beating down all day. I warmed up on Bridging Interest HVS 5a, before climbing Security Risk and Venture Capital both E1 5b although maybe soft at the grade. Security Risk was particularly fun with some ace moves out onto chicken heads high up. I followed James up some great proper E2s. Wall Street E2 5c which had a sting in the tail right at the top but in a fantastic position. Wish You Were Here, somehow given just E2 5b, surely at least 5c though, required serious graft up an unrelenting crack line, but what a line, four star candidate. 

Unknown climber I managed to snap while on abseil climbing the superb Grey Panther, Kilt Rock.

Next day of the three day trip we headed round to Kilt Rock up on the Trotternish Peninsula. A proper photogenic crag when viewed from the South and a crag not short of lines! I started up The Electric Bagpipe round in the descent gully which is a superb VS, probably HVS, with brilliant moves up the layback crack which you wished just went on and on. James then led up A Haggis Called Wanda E2 5b, which was a good line but a wee bit loose and dirty, just needed more traffic, it was another tough jamming route. James then while warm put in a physical and mental stamina effort up Internationale E2 5b, surely 5c, as we had in our possesion two and a half sets of cams - including a monster BD Camalot 5 (required). This is undoubtedly the best line I've ever climbed in Scotland and James dispatched it in good style, despite running out of cams near the top he kept a cool head. It is a perfect splitter hand crack which verges into offwidth territory in the middle, requiring a full repertoire of crack climbing technique, I was very happy to second it clean, being terrible at cracks! I capped off the trip with an ascent of Grey Panther, possibly the best single pitch E1 5b in Scotland. It takes a direct line up the typical chimney-esque columns of Kilt Rock, switching between the two perfect cracks in either side of the groove. The jamming is painless, secure and thoroughly enjoyable, with continuous 5b moves with no stand out crux. It feels like it just goes on and on but it's steady throughout. Without doubt the best single pitch climb I've had the joy to lead.

Scotty the dog chilling at Neist.

The monsoons of Summer then duly arrived come the start of June. I did however have a good start to the month and was chuffed to make a rather determined redpoint ascent of Unforgiven 7b at Dumby. It was our fourth session and I thankfully managed it on the third lead attempt. Sean had sent it earlier that afternoon so the nerves started getting the better of me. I managed to piece together what must have been one of my worst ever attempts, lead or on top-rope, and somehow sent it. It was sheer refusal to fall off over good style for sure.

Fresh back from the Alps I was fully psyched to get into the mountains however the Scottish Summer continued to have other ideas. Myself and Peter headed through to a moist Limekilns towards the end of August. Here I managed to dig my way up Elgin's crack, finding the upper crux much harder than the boulder move at the start. I was pumped out my mind but somehow delicately made the move right up into the easier ground after reading the upper crux wrong.

Evening light at Dumby.

I managed to get round to doing some other Dumby classics later on in August and September with Peter and Jeremy. This time it was trad however with the classics of Windjammer and Longbow. Unfortunately Longbow suffers from a seeping grass ledge above so it had to wait until the tail end of September. Both are quality lines, probably the best at their respective grades of HVS 5a and E1 5b within the Central Belt. Both sustained and long for Central Belt trad and very much a Dumby feel to them both, superb. 

A damp two day foray North with James found us back at Creag Dubh making a thoroughly enjoyable ascent of the bold Strapadicktaemi E1 5a, before heading up to Huntly's Cave for some real fun steep trad there the following day. I led the classic Double Overhang HVS 5a before making an ascent of the under-rated Diagonal Direct E1 5c. 

Myself at my hometown crag Loudon Hill, (photo credit Finlay Cranston).

More local trad followed with the start of the Indian Summer in October. I managed to make my first E3 lead at Cambusbarron on Slot Shot E3 5c. I had unfortunately seconded at the start of the Summer so missed out on the onsight but was chuffed none the less to feel pretty steady on it - despite it probably being a standard softly graded Cambusbarron route!

Trying to pack in as much into the Indian Summer as possible, we were back at Weem. I was really happy to onsight The Last Temptation E2 5c which takes an overhanging crack to start, then up into a superb steep corner crack before finishing over a small capping roof. The protection is very good once into the corner crack and the route is sustained. I had to give it big licks so was really happy with the onsight which turned out to be one of the highlights of the year for me. 

A trip up to Glen Clova was squeezed in with James mid October where we climbed some of the classics up there. I led Proud Corner which certainbly felt pokey at VS before putting onsighting the Witch's Tooth, a definite sandbag at E1 5b. James linked up Zig Zag Double Direct E2 5c to give what turned out to be a pretty serious and big lead due to a soaking wet finish above gear.

The Souter sea stack at Fastcastle.

To round off the Summer myself, Sean, James and Scotty the dog headed East to the Souter, on a bright breezy but chilly day at the start of November. The three of us made a grand ascent of the stack and I was lucky enough to win the rock, paper, scissors in order to get the lead. It felt quite pokey at HVS but it was good that the sea stack didn't give up easily. Sean also led Plain Sailing which looked too good to second so we quickly pulled the ropes and I led through on the pre-placed gear for speed (it was cold!); a route you climb throughout with a smile on your face. James made a good effort on Fast Bleeder which takes a soaring crack line with a breather at half height, unfortunately he fluffed the crux first go but it was hardly primo conditions. Myself and Sean made feeble attempts at seconding it with freezing cold hands - must learn to crack climb in 2017!

Sean Henderson approaching the crux on the enjoyable Plain Sailing E1 5b, The Souter (Fastcastle).

Savage Slit - Coire an Lochain - 9th November 2016

The start to the 16/17 Scottish Winter season disappeared as quickly as it arrived. Thankfully now as I write Scotland is taking a bit of a battering off of Storm Barbara and something more akin to Winter is returning to the hills. I managed to squeeze in a pretty productive start to the season despite the short lived early season conditions. I picked up a copy of Simon Richardson's new book 'Chasing the Ephemeral' before the season started and this filled me full of psyche for the months ahead. The book is more of an instructional manual on how to judge what kind of conditions exist in the hills and how the weather influences them, once this is understood it provides an insight into how best to maximise your chances of success for the given conditions. It is years of experience distilled down into one book and I would highly recommend picking up a copy, it has certainly changed how I will evaluate my approach to route/crag choices this Winter. Plus it is full of a staggering collection of Scottish Winter climbing photography. 

The teams above on Savage Slit (left) and Fallout Corner (right), with Ally in hot pursuit.

Myself and Ally Fulton clawed ourselves out of our beds at the standard early hour accustomary to Scottish Winter climbing for the drive North to Aviemore. We both had Savage Slit in mind as a good early season option and it proved to be a good choice. As we walked into the corrie it became abundantly clear just how well rimed up the cliffs were. We slogged on up to the foot of the route to find a team already making their way up the first pitch and another team heading on up Fallout Corner. We elected to join the queue so layered on up and cracked open the flask of tea.

Soon Ally was heading on up the first pitch which is easy enough to start although felt slightly insecure. Soon he was deposited beneath the Slit itself and was getting involved with the initial crux. The Slit starts off pretty secure with good hooks and gear although this runs out for a short section where the hooks are slightly more tenuous. Unperturbed Ally placed a cam, made a couple pulls on some decent edges up the cracked wall and was soon within the bowels of the Slit itself. Some grovelling followed and out he popped at the first chokestone and belay. We waited for a bit of time for the team ahead to move off then it was my turn to follow on up. It felt strange to be pulling on axes again but was looking forward my pitch above. 

Myself enjoying the back and footing while approaching the second crux.

Gear swapped at the belay and I was soon heading on up the immaculate second pitch. Some nice and easy bridging moves up the face of the corner to start with led up to a section where the good edges out right dried up. There was nothing for it but to get heavily involved within the Slit itself. Some back and footing gained another couple of metres followed by some comedy mantle-shelfing but the promised sinker gear and hooks continued. 

Second crux dispatched, just some enjoyable big hooks and more chimneying action left, (photo credit David McKinney).

A further impasse was reached where the hooks became rather thin and I only had one mono on a high edge. I pressed my back hard against the chimney, with my right knee up against my torso, left foot low down smearing away, and I began fiddling in a hex. This proved rather awkward and in hindsight I had clearly paused to place gear mid crux. Determined though the hex was eventually seated and as is the norm, once I made the pull off the thin hook, I got myself into a much comfier position with great easy gear in reach - sods law. The chimney opened out slightly from here and the climbing got much easier and soon I was at the insitu belay. Ally quickly followed thoroughly enjoying the pitch. The team above us had left their ab ropes in place for their pals on Fallout Corner, so we duly accepted their rope and scooted on back down. 

Ally loving the good early season conditions on second pitch. 

Savage Slit did not disappoint and it was a fantastic quick day to kick start the season, the weather even cleared up too as the day went on! 

A sociable descent with some beautiful early evening light.

Chamonix Summer 2016

I was lucky enough to get a second climbing trip in 2016, on top of our Spring trip to the Gorges du Verdon, this time a first trip to the Alps with Chamonix being the destination. There were a lot of unknowns heading down to the Alps for the first time, more broadly surrounding what kind of step up it would be from home. I sought out advice and guidebooks from mates before leaving, to try and get a feel of where we might stand when it came to this big world of alpinism. Before we knew it, Sean was off the back of his nightshift and we were on our way South in his T5. 

We had called ahead on the way South and reserved a place at the Argentiere campsite. The campsite takes a different scene during the Winter and turns into a small ski run. We parked up in among the pomas and set up camp. The campsite is a busy place and has a great vibe. There's all sorts of folks there, from seasoned alpinists to families on holiday and everyone in-between. There's a small pub where you can also order fresh baguettes and croissants for the morning. Best of all however is the midweek pizza nights, run by a local couple who tour the campsites through the week with their trailer, serving up freshly cooked pizzas. Nothing tasted better, besides maybe the steak frites baguettes in town.

Settled in at Argentiere; coffee and films.

Our first objective of the trip was to ease ourselves in up on Le Brevent the next day. We had picked out a popular route known as the Frison Roche, a great 6a which picks it's way up the rightmost end of the main Le Brevent crag immediately beneath the cable car station. We arrived off the first cable car of the day but unbeknown to us pretty much everyone else had the same idea (queues are a theme in the Alps). Nevertheless we waited our turn and eventually got going. 

Base jumper off Le Brevent.

The route takes in a pleasant pillar with a couple reachy moves to begin with, before traversing gently up and right into the physical punchy crux corner. There was quite a lot of waiting about before the crux but it was all pretty sociable and we had a French guides Spotify to pass the time. Plus, there are most certainly worse places to be queuing. Here you could chill out in the warmth of the morning sun, looking over to the the Mt Blanc, your sight tracing along the Aiguilles before being drawn to the mighty Dru. 

Eventually our turn at the crux pitch arrived and the reigns fell to me. It began with a well featured slabby climb up into a short and punchy corner jamming crack. It felt pretty physical and you couldn't hang about too long, but a couple of high and awkward feet allowed me to lank up to a good handrail before pulling over onto easy ground. A medium cam between the bolts felt quite reassuring here, but in truth it wasn't too bad and felt like a punchy E1 or soft E2 5b. 

All that was left was an easy traverse left round to the soaring open book corner which defines the line. It is a superb sustained pitch and without doubt the best of the route. It would be a three or four star E1 5b if up in the Highlands! Sean dispatched this in good style, probably egged on by the fact that the two Italian women in front of us had just ran up it on trad gear without breaking sweat, despite the good bolting! First route in the bag we descended to Cham for steak frites!

The Midi Ridge busy with the morning rush.

Unfortunately the weather forecast for the next day had other ideas so we had resigned ourselves to a day of cafes and touring endless gear shops - there are worse things to do. However timings worked out well and I heard back from John McCune whom I'd got in touch with about arranging a days crevasse rescue training. I'd met John two or three years previously one winter in Lochnagar, where he was climbing with Rory Brown and I'd recommend a route called Ghost Dance on the Southern Sector to them. John was approaching his IFMGA guide exam so a crap days weather and two Alpine punters looking to get lobbed down some crevasses worked out well for all.

Approaching the queues at the crux on the Cosmiques.

The downpours cleared through the night to bring another beautiful bluebird morning in Chamonix. We caught the bus into town and jumped on the Midi lift with the classic Cosmiques Arete in mind for our first 'proper' route. The rapid ascent from Chamonix all the way to the top of the Aiguille du Midi at 3842m didn't quite give the head time to acclimatize and we had to take five minutes for the dizziness to clear. Before long though we were gearing up in the ice tunnel and taking the first few nervous steps out onto the exposed Midi Arete. This certainly got the heart pumping and we took our time down it. Once down the arete we hot footed it across the Col du Midi eager to get in front of as many parties as possible.

The crux step on the Cosmiques with Midi station behind.

The Cosmiques proved to live up to its name as a truly great excursion. It takes in some fantastic scenery and positions coupled with some really enjoyable easy climbing. The crux, despite being rather artificial, was good fun and there was of course the added bonus at the end of topping out back at the Midi lift station. The ridge was ridiculously busy as to be expected which did unfortunately detract from the experience a bit, but it was still a super route and a super first proper Alpine day out. 

A poser on the Cosmiques Arete with fantastic views of Mt Blanc.

We returned to the valley quite happy with the speed at which we had moved together up on the Cosmiques and felt that by the afternoon our bodies were normalizing to the altitude. So after some guidebook flicking that night we decided to up the ante and headed off for an attempt at the Midi-Plan Traverse the following day. We aimed to catch the first lift up the Midi that morning but were stopped in tracks upon jumping off the bus to mile long queues at the lift station. It transpires that if you want to catch the first lift, you have to turn up very early before the first lift! Unfortunately we had to wait a while so didn't set off down the Midi Ridge till 9.30am. Nevertheless we strode on down the ridge excited, eyeballing the amazing traverse ahead which snakes its way along the prominent ridge which sits high above Chamonix.

Embarking out on the Midi-Plan Traverse, with the Aiguille du Plan back left.

We made good time to the Rognon du Plan despite going over the top of the two towers on the way which would have been easier skirted on their leeward side. We began the abseils down to the Col Superior du Plan navigating the numerous chimneys and threads of tat. It was only once we got down onto the snowy col below that we realised the error of setting off so late. The col and Glacier d'Envers du Plan catches the sunlight from the early morning onward so by the time we reached it in the early afternoon the snow was like porridge. After a probing foray out into the steep porridge to a rocky bay we quickly decided that finishing the final snow plod up top the Aiguille du Plan wasn't sensible and that a retreat was now the only option. 

Looking to the Grandes Jorasses and Dent du Geant.

We had two options, descend the creaking Glacier d'Envers to the hut or reverse the route as planned. Neither option sounded great as we were now acutely aware that the exposed stone chute just short of the Rognon du Plan would be a firing line now that it was bathed in the sun. We elected that reversing was the best option and that we would make the call once we arrived at the stone chute. 

Sean leading back up the abseils to the Rognon du Plan.

We had heeded the advice of our guidebook and only carried a few slings and walking axe for the route, something we quickly realised was a mistake. Sean put in a good mixed lead back up the abseils, utilizing his walking axe at one point as a piton for protection. Upon topping back out onto the narrow rocky section of the Rognon du Plan we knew the game was up and there was no chance we were catching the final lift back down to Cham. This ironically settled our minds and seemed to lift the pressure off us once we accepted that we were going to be enjoying an unplanned bivvy at altitude. We relaxed knowing that there was a good overnight forecast and began to enjoy the absolutely stunning sunset which was now beginning to take place. We elected for Andy Kirkpatrick's advice on unplanned bivvys namely, 'work hard and work late' and decided to press on as long as sensible in order to stay warm. 

Back atop the Rognon du Plan with the light beginning to fade.

We soon found ourselves at the stone chute which marked the descent from the Rognon du Plan, just at the last of the light. We timidly took some steps down but could hear stones whirring and bouncing down it. We knew immediately it would be daft to continue, so we headed back up to a snow balcony overlooking Chamonix which we had scouted out as a suitable bivvy. Dressed like two Michelin men in all our layers and thick down jackets, which we were now very thankful of, we began slowly digging out our bed for the night, making sure not to sweat. Still buoyed by the most beautiful sunset and colours we had just seen over the Mt Blanc Massif, we were secretly looking forward to the night under the stars. 

Sunset over the Mt Blanc and Aiguille du Midi.

Sean had rather inconveniently removed his survival bag out of his ruckie, for apparently "the first time ever", so it was a tight squeeze into mine. It was a rather sweaty affair so we elected just to use it as a blanket. It was a chilly night and we had to get up every 30-40 mins to dance about to generate some heat, mostly for the legs - down jackets work well! I didn't manage any sleep but enjoyed gazing at the milky way and shooting stars before later watching climbers start out up the Trois Monts Route from the Cosmiques. Sean on the other hand demonstrated his incredible ability to sleep in any location. 

A bit chilly but enjoying the experience; we even had Spotify!

It got to about the back of 3am and we were driven into action from the cold and the prospect of an early lift back down from the Midi. We'd rationed out what food and water we had left so finished that off and set off slowly down the stone chute. We soon found ourselves back on the awesome snow arete which curves its way back to the Midi. The blue hour arrived and the sunrise over the Grand Jorasses was simply breathtaking. We were glad to get the heat of the morning sun and soon removed the down jackets. We bumped into a team of three from London who were just setting out, at the exposed traverse just after the Col du Plan. They had stayed the night in the Cosmiques and were sporting technical tools and a light rack - all sensible ideas in hindsight. They offered a little water which I gladly accepted although turned down their offer of food as we knew they had a big day ahead. We were soon back at the Midi Ridge which we beasted on up with the prospect of a Coke and some scran. Coke in hand we collapsed at the tourist platform and bathed in the morning sunshine. A great adventure was had. 

Approaching the end with the Midi in sight. 

Once back at the camp site we were both completely gubbed and crashed out on the grass with gear stewn around us. What a nick we must have looked like! A full rest day was had with a couple beers. For my final day in town we elected to just go for an easier day as the forecast wasn't fantastic. So we nipped on up the Petite Aiguille Verte quickly in the morning after a lie in and were back down in Cham for some lunch time hot dogs at Cool Cats - highly recommended! 

Sean was a bit burst.

It felt like a quick trip but we packed in a lot and despite our failure on the Midi-Plan we learned a lot. It was an eye opening experience the Alps and I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience. Moving in big mountains, with big scenery on brilliant routes and with a lot of other psyched and fit people around - what's not to like?

Summit selfies on top of the Petite Verte.

Spring in the Verdon

Back at the start of May I made my first foray abroad bolt clipping and was thrown in at the deep end by Sean as we headed for the mighty Verdon Gorge. 

The Verdon Gorge in all its glory with the huge vultures ominously circling overhead.

We kicked off the trip by easing ourselves in at Chateauvert, a lovely roadside crag a bit South of the Verdon. The climbing was on excellent coarse pocketed limestone with the bolting being very friendly. Here we warmed up with a long and enjoyable 5c, before ticking a 6a+ and a couple of pumpy 6bs.

Sean lent a belay to some Japanese dirtbagger.

We then headed on up to La Palud where we had treated ourselves to a gite just off the main square. Unfortunately the weather had other ideas and there was a fresh dusting of wet snow on the tops! We headed for the main cafe-bar which is the hubbub of all activity in La Palud to seek beer, steak frites and some advice on where to go! The barman recommended that the classic crag of Buoux would be good the following day, so we headed on down there.

Sean bridging his way up the spicy first pitch of La Marabounta 6a.

The variety of the climbing here surprised us with everything from pocket pulling test pieces, balancy slabs to more traditional chimneys and even offwidths (god forbid!). We got some superb routes done and enjoyed the chilled out atmosphere at the crag which was busy with families, locals and foreign climbers alike. There was however a bitingly cold wind which curtailed our afternoon and sent us driving back on up to La Palud.

Thankfully the weather picked up big time and we got five days of unbroken sunshine and warmth in the gorge for the rest of the trip. We kicked off the proceedings with an abseil down the Barre de l'Escales with the target of Les Dalles Grises in mind. We set off early which turned out to be a good idea as it is a very popular area of the gorge.

Sean on the first of many an exciting abseil on the trip.

We set on up the first two pitches of Les Dalles Grises but it fairly soon became apparent that we were off route. This was not to worry as the climbing was all around the same standard with exception of the roof finish of a new route which Sean inadvertently found himself under. The first fall of the trip ensued before a successful battle over the 6b roof brought us out up the top. We retired from the heat of the afternoon sun for espresso, croissants and panache before returning in the early evening for some 'single pitches' off the lip of the gorge. This proved to be a good plan each day, getting a bigger route done in the morning then single pitching in the evening sun. Sean decided we should get our full dosage of the crazy exposure straight away, so I found myself hanging at the belay for 'Wide is Love'. A position that can only be described as wild.

Sean at the hanging belay of 'Wide is Love' with the exposure dragging at his heels.

The next day we headed for the Arete du Belvedere which felt pretty different from the exposed face climbing around the Dalles Grises area. The arete was a lot more traditional and followed an excellent line up the crest through its entire length. I enjoyed the route and could relax into the climbing thanks to the exposure returning to a more normal level. Accessing the route is a bit of an adventure in itself and follows a pretty exposed track of red dots which weaves its way down a broken section of the gorge leading to the base of the route. The crux is low down on the second pitch and tackles an offwidth crack which Sean duly dispatched, popping us out onto the crest of the ridge. The rest of the route is a well bolted VS romp but interesting all the way taking in some fantastic positions in a slightly more secluded area of the gorge.

Sean on the crest of the Arete du Belvedere.

It is a pretty surreal place the gorge, especially so around the Dalles Grises where tourists spectate from the belvederes above, ooh and aahing at the climbers below, before applauding them on top out and asking for pictures. The climbing is sensational, as to be expected for such a venue and can be pretty varied; from slabs pocketed with the 'gouttes d'eaus', aretes, chimneys and cracks which can all feature even on the one route. It certainly deserves its title of 'adventurous sport climbing' and I think as one guidebook quipped, "You will either revel in the exposure or be paralyzed by it". Unfortunately for me it was most definitely the latter, finding myself gripped on 6a pitches, crimping the living daylights out of what positive edges could be found. There is certainly a certain climbing style required in the Verdon and for me it felt like it would take a bit of time to get my head around it. 

Some of the more relaxed exposure at Dalles Grises.

Our final two days in the gorge finished with a sociable day back at Les Dalles Grises where we climbed Afin que nul ne Meure before finishing up the top two pitches of 36.15 which made an enjoyable 6a+. La Palud had suddenly gotten very busy the night prior as we were eating our takeaway pizzas from the wee van in the pub (highly recommended). It was as if every continental had descended upon La Palud overnight - Verdon season had clearly begun! This had made for busy belays around Les Dalles Grises and sociable routes as a result.

Some punters on belay at Les Dalles Grises.

Friday marked our final day in the gorge and after an early start to beat the newly arrived crowds, we found ourselves in the cool morning air atop the Belvedere de L'Escales once more. It was another beautiful morning with crisp views to the distant peaks and the plan was to get a big route ticked to round off the trip. Sean had his sights set on Les Deux Doigts dans le Nez, a super sustained 6a+ taking in some crazy exposure. The abseil chains were quickly located, along with a warning of vulture nests on nearby routes. The ropes were flaked, thrown over the edge and down we went. Upon arriving at the third abseil station we were given a taste of what was to come....

45m free hanging abseils certainly wake you up in the morning.

A lonely 45 metre free hanging abseil half a kilometre above the gorge base certainly kicks the senses alive. No need to worry about missing out on our morning espresso today. Soon we found ourselves down at the traverse ledge which had a via-ferrata type setup to access the base of the routes. The first belay featured a seat up in a tree branch and Sean charged on up despite some tough first moves off the deck (tree). I quickly realised that my head was not in the game, feeling mentally tired from the verticality and physically from the heat. With my tail between my legs I passed over the lead to Sean (soon to become the entire route). A marathon effort from Sean consisting of four pitches of continuous 6a+ climbing found us at the final belay. A quick energy bar hit and Sean was off up the final overhanging groove pitch. 

It quickly became apparent that there was a serious sting in the tail to come with Sean having to give it big licks straight off the belay. A big effort found Sean below the top of the hooded groove and throwing wildly for the jug besides the next clip. He hit the jug stood up into it, now four metres above his last draw, clipped the bolt, disco legs going wild and elbows up at ear level, yarded on the rope to clip....and he was off. A ten metre whipper ensued and I found myself up at the first bolt. I lowered myself back down to the belay and turned to see three Frenchies who had just arrived at the belay with the fear of death in their eyes. Sean now with a tattered and bloody hand was absolutely buzzing with adrenaline. He began jugging his way back up to his high point as the Frenchies pulled out their topo. Relief followed when we realised that we were in fact on the 6b+ pitch of the neighboring route. A very awkward tensioned traverse right found us back onto the correct pitch and Sean's blood stained holds led the way to the top. 

"Crazy verticality in cathedral silence".

A chilled out evening of cote de boeuf and vin rouge in the pub rounded off the trip. The Gorges du Verdon is certainly somewhere I will return to in time although probably not straight away. A trip to Spain for some 'non-adventurous' bolt clipping may follow first!